FREQUENCY: Common, all of a sudden
NO. APPEARING: One per magazine
ARMOR CLASS: 15 (Be careful; it crunches easily)
MOVE: Yes, in a slight breeze <zephyr>
HIT DICE: 0 (for display, not combat)
% IN LAIR: Depends on where you put it
TREASURE TYPE: Nil (What do you want for free?)
NO. OF ATTACKS: 0 (see Hit Dice)
DAMAGE/ATTACK: You know...
SPECIAL ATTACKS: Inspires envy in FRIENDS who don't have one
SPECIAL DEFENSES: Must be cut and glued
MAGIC RESISTANCE: Keep it away from fireballs
INTELLIGENCE: It doesn't need any--you do
ALIGNMENT: Fine, if you don't put the wings on upside down
SIZE: What you see is what you get
PSIONIC ABILITY: Nil (see Treasure Type)
 

Recommended order for assembly	Head and neck/tail segments	Center body section	Legs and claws	Neck and tail
Wings	Base and support post

Weve managed to subdue a cardboard dragon, and
now we'd like you to have it. The only problem is that
the poor thing seems to have gone all to pieces over
the experience, so you?re going to have to put it back
together.

The three sheets of cardboard in the center of this
magazine contain all the parts you need, and the instructions
on this and the following three pages explain
how everything fits together. We?ve also thrown
in a few photographs of the assembled prototype that
should help clear up any confusion that may remain
after you?ve studied the sheets and the diagrams.
Take it slowly, plan before you paste, and you should
end up with a handsome piece of paper sculpture
that you can display and even use for the playing out
of an encounter.

Cut the parts out of the sheets as you need them. A
hobby knife and a straightedge will come in handy
for making crisp, clean cuts on the straight lines (of
which there aren't too many). For the curved lines, a
sharp pair of scissors and a steady hand are the best
tools. Use a type of glue, paste, or cement that works
on paper without soaking through the paper, and be
sure to apply it sparingly to all the surfaces that need
to be joined to another surface. You may also use
transparent tape for added strength on the inside of
bonded surfaces that won?t be visible in the finished
product.

Included on the sheets are the parts for a base and
a support post that you can use to make the dragon
"fly." You can also suspend it in mid-air by punching
a couple of pinholes in the fins along its spine and
stringing a couple of pieces of thread through the
holes. Using the support post will enable you to easily
adjust how high it's flying, so that if you want to
use the dragon as a "miniature" in conjunction with
other figures during a game session you can raise or
lower it to fit the circumstances of the encounter.

Turn the page, read through all the instructions
before starting, and enjoy!

Design and artwork by Dennis Kauth
Photography by Keith Parkinson

Recommended order of assembly:
    1. Head (18) and tail (19)
    2. Center body section (17)
    3. Neck and tail sections (1-16)
    4. Legs and claws (21-27)
    5. Fins along spine (28-34), if desired <Neck and tail>
    6. Wings (20)
    7. Base and support post, if used

Head and neck/tail segments
Cut out the parts carefully, then score the
dashed lines on the underside of each piece and
fold along the dashed lines to form the headshape
and the cylinders that make up the body.
To keep the head together apply glue to the area
containing the number and to the 2 small triangular
areas on both sides of the snout. For the
body segments, apply glue to the area containing
the number and fasten that area to the underside
of the opposite edge. Assemble the body
parts one at a time as you need them, or come
up with a way to organize them by number because
they must be put together in the order
they are numbered

Center body section
You must decide whether or not to use
the support post before cutting out this
piece. If you do not intend to use it, do
not cut out the triangular areas on the
sides, so that the part is shaped like a rectangle
with 2 protrusions (which will
form the ends of a closed cylinder when it
is assembled). If you do intend to use it,
cut out the piece along all of the solid
lines and then also cut along the solid
lines on the interior of the part.

To form the closed cylinder, glue the
tabs on the protrusions to the inside of the
body one at a time, starting with the tabs
nearest to the fold line. When this process
is almost complete, apply glue to the flap
along the edge of the body and tuck this
in to finish off the cylinder.

Legs and claws
The "legs" are not three-dimensional pieces,
merely flat ovals that are glued together to form
extensions off the body. See the "Neck and tail"
diagram for where to place parts 21 and 24,
which are the upperparts of the legs. Then attach
other parts as shown in this diagram. The
parts of each leg may be put together in any
pose desired, and the legs can be finished off
with either opened or closed claws (pick one section
of part 27 as desired).

Neck and tail
The dragon's neck and tail are made up of telescoping
cylinders that will easily fit into each
other -- as long as parts 2 through 16 are assembled
in the exact order shown in this diagram.
The sections can be glued together in any
pose desired; your dragon can be built with its
head bent downward (instead of upward, as in
our prototype) if you want to show him in a diving
posture. The head and tail should be fastened
to the body when all the sections have
been put together. The fins along the dragon's
spine (parts 28-34) can be used or left off, as
desired.

Wings
These are the largest and simplest parts to assemble.
Score and fold along all the dashed
lines, then bring the two opposite edges together
to form a double-sided wing. Apply glue
along the entire inside edge of one side and on
the two end flaps, then press the wing together 
and put it under an object that will apply constant,
even pressure to the edge until
the glue dries. (Do not completely flatten
the wing; the leading edge is supposed
to have some thickness to it, and
should not be flat like the trailing edge
is.) When the body is completely assembled,
glue the wings onto the two nonscaly
areas on part 17.

Base and support post
Fold and glue both parts 36 to make a pair of
long, thin square tubes. Construct part 37 in the
same way, to make a shorter and slightly
smaller tube, and then glue part 37 inside the
ends of the other two parts to make one very
long tube. Fold the flaps on the end of the long
tube outward (as shown in the diagram) and
fasten them to part 35 on the cross-shaped area.
The support panels (part 38) are glued to parts
35 and 36 and to each other giving the entire
assembly enough structural integrity to support
the dragon.

For extra strength and durability it would be
a good idea to glue pieces of scrap cardboard to
the underside of parts 35, 36, and 38 before assembling
them. Be careful, though, that the extra
thickness on part 36 doesn?t prevent part 37
from sliding inside it when you form the long
tube.

 

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Dungeons & Dragons	Advanced Dungeons & Dragons	Monsters	Dragon magazine	The Dragon #113