| Creation of the party | How many magickal items? | The march of the monsters | Organized resistance | New monsters and magic items |
| The campaign overview | - | - | - | - |
| The Campaign (DMG) | - | - | - | AD&&D |
| The Campaign (Dragon magazine) | - | - | - | - |
You have made the decision
to begin a campaign, but you don’t
know where to START. You
have a lot of great ideas, ways to mix
existing monsters and spells
with a few new things of your own
creation. Still, you are
unsure where to begin.
The worst place is in the
middle. You should start fresh; a new
party is required. Do not
try to take an existing group of characters
that has moved from dungeon
to dungeon into your new world.
Your old party will have
some medium-level, if not more powerful, <mid-level = 4-8>
characters as well as many
items and spells that would ruin a low-level
dungeon. Designing a campaign
means starting with low-level <low-level = 0-4>
characters who are to be
built up in the framework of the new world.
The existing characters might
be brought in once the rest of the
party has caught up to them
in levels. Or the existing characters
might be allowed to “settle
down” in your world as NPCs
for the new group to meet.
If this latter option is adopted,
the existing characters
should have no reason to automatically befriend
the new party. Finally,
the existing party can “sire” the new
party--but there must be
very few, if any, heirlooms passed down to
the new group and the DM
must control the gentry, not the players.
Creation of a campaign is
best accomplised in three steps:
1. Creation
of the party.
2. Creation
of the first adventure(s).
3. Creation
of the history and overview of the adventure site(s).
Does this sound backwards
to you? It likely does, but there is an
explanation. By knowing
the size (that is, rank, level and number of
members of the party that
will go on an adventure), it is easier to
design that adventure.
The
adventure can be dangerous, but still a task that can be
completed. It is too easy
to design an adventure and then realize that
a beginning party is too
weak to attack it. The Fun of a campaign is to
promote low-level characters
and to let players get close to the
characters and to form their
personas. That is almost impossible if
character enters the game
as a 4th, 5th, 6th or even higher level
character.
Creation
of the party
There are many methods of
creating characters. Rolling them up
with the players present
is usually a good policy for the DM to follow.
A few methods are given
in the DMG. Here is a
variation on one of those:
1. Roll
4d6 seven times. Record the sum of the 3 highest
six-sided
dice. If that sum is six or less, reroll at once. The sums must
be recorded
in order.
For example:
| Rolls | Record |
| 6/5/3/1 | 14 |
| 3/3/3/2 | 9 |
| 6/6/5/3 | 17 |
| 5/5/3/2 | 13 |
| 2/2/1/1 | discard |
| 4/4/4/3 | 12 |
| 6/4/5/4 | 15 |
| 5/3/3/2 | 11 |
2. The
player is allowed 2 chances to alter the numbers as
recorded.
He/she may switch the positions of 2 numbers and
he/she
may discard 1 number—not necessarily the lowest one.
The resultant
character will be described for abilities in the order
S-I-W-D-C-B
(“B” is for Bearing or Beauty, used
instead of Charisma,
to avoid
2 characteristics beginning with “C”.). At the moment
the character
has scores of 14-9-17-13-12-15-11. He or she
could
be altered as follows:
S 17,
I14, W 13, D 12, C 15, B 11 (switch 14 and 17, eliminate 9)
S 14,
I 17, W 13, D 15, C 12, B 11 (switch 15 and 12, eliminate 9)
S 14,
112, W 13, D 17, C 15, B 11 (switch 12 and 17, eliminate9)
S 14,
I9, W 15, D 13, C 12, B 17 (switch 15 and 17, eliminate 11)
3. Now
adjust the abilities for race if he/she is to be other than a
human.
Taking the 4 characters given above, the DM
might
allow these racial changes (also given is the selection of
profession);
S 18,
I 14, W, D 12, C 16, B 9: Half-orc fighter
(He/she could now roll for unusual strength.)
S 14,
I 17, W 13, D 16, C 11, B 11: Elven Magic-User
S 13,
I 12, W 13, D 18, C 15, B 11: Hobbit
Thief
S 14,19,
W 15, D 13, C 12, B 17: Human Druid
The DM might want the characters
to meet certain criteria (see
below), and might wish to
forbid 1 or more of the sub-classes. The
assignment of alignment,
skills, languages, spells known, etc. is all
the prerogative of the DM.
He/she can ask the players to collaborate
on the races and classes
they select, or he/she might forbid such
contact. In the latter case,
however, there may end up being too
many of one class. While
that might be fun for a while, eventually it
will harm your campaign
and the players’ enjoyment. The DM
should always monitor
the entire process of creation of PCs.
<bold added>
The DM may find it wise to
eliminate a few of the possible
sub-classes when beginning
a campaign, or at least to limit the total
number of allowed sub-classes
to a maximum of 2. A beginning
party should not contain
a Paladin, an Assassin or an Illusionist.
These are difficult sub-classes
to play and they detract from a beginning
adventure; add them later
in The Game. A Ranger, a Druid or a
Monk is not too hard to
control, but before you allow those subclasses
in the party be sure that
there is a regular Fighter (or 2)
before you allow a Ranger
and a regular Cleric before you allow a
Druid or a Monk.
A campaign plays best with
5 or 6 players. Three is a minimum
number and 8 is a reasonable
maximum. A group of more
than 8 is usually unruly
and difficult to manage. I have run many
tournament games at conventions
and found parties of 9 or 10 to
be difficult even for only
4 or so hours of an event; on a week-by-week
basis this would be maddening.
3 or 4 players is too
few. Each player will usually
have 2 characters, if not 3, and
the flow of ideas becomes
stifled and limited.
Each player should have 1
or 2 characters according to the
following formula. For every
3 first-level characters, a beginning
party may have 1 second-level
character. For every 2 second-
level party members there
may be 1 third-level character. (A
multi-class, multi-level
character counts in the following way:
1/1=2, 2/2=3, 3/3 not allowed.)
If there is a 3rd-level character it
should be controlled by
a single player. 2 first-level characters
can be given to a single
player.
Thus, party size is limited
to 3 to 12 figures. Having more
than 12 figures to play
is difficult in melee and other situations.
The option of adding a few
0-level mercenaries should exist. Add
these in pairs, with 6 such
characters as a maximum number while
staying within the total
allowable party size of 12.
All of these number recommendations
are based on the author’s
experience in some 50 tournament
games, 50 or more miniatures
games and 5 campaigns.
If a 3rd-level character
is allowed, he/she should be a Fighter,
a
Cleric or a Thief. Members
of all of the other classes and sub-classes
should have to work to gain
3rd level. It is wise to allow 1 or 2
second-level characters
to strengthen the beginning party. A dozen
first-level types are fairly
easy prey but if they are reinforced by 2
second-levels, their doom
is not as easily foretold.
PCs should always have the
maximum possible HP at first level.
That is, Fighters 10, Clerics
8, Thieves 6 and
Magic-Users 4, adjusted
for Constitution of course. Rangers begin
with 8+d8 and Monks with
4+d4 hit points. Give PCs a
good chance to survive:
There is nothing more pitiful than a Fighter
who has a strength of 18/00
and only 2 HP to back him/her
up!
Spells known by the group’s
Magic-User(s) should be as per the DMG.
<(ACQUISITION OF MAGIC-USER SPELLS)>
A DM can be a real sweetheart
and not require a roll “to
know” for the first 3 spells
given at first level. If a knowledge roll
is required, be sure to
make at least 3 spells available to the
Magic-User.
Spells
not known on the 1st attempt can be tried again whenever
the figure gets a promotion,
as long as his/her teacher already
knows the spell he/she has
failed to learn in the past. This 2nd roll
is at minus 20%, however.
If he/she fails a 2nd attempt, the spell
is forever beyond comprehension.
(Exception: If the player somehow
gains a full point of Intelligence,
he/she may try one more time,
but still at minus 20% and
only with an instructor as before.)
Here is a weighting of the
spells for Magic-Users at the 1st level
(other levels can and probably
should be weighted as well) following
a set of criteria. Spells
that are “common” are given a higher percentage
chance to appear (and thus
be taught to a Magic-User).
Spells that are difficult
to adjudicate are given a low probability.
Spells that give the Magic-User
too much power if given early in a
campaign are given a low
probability. Naturally, you can vary these
percentages as you see fit
or you might just choose all spells to be
out.
| Roll | Offensive Spells | Roll | Defensive Spells |
| 1-8 | Burning Hands | 1-11 | Affect Normal Fires |
| 9-21 | Charm Person | 12-23 | Dancing Lights |
| 22-27 | Enlarge | 24-30 | Feather Fall |
| (or: 22-30 | Enlarge | 31-38 | Hold Portal |
| 31-37 | Shrink) | 39-45 | Jump |
| 38-42 | FRIENDS | 46-60 | Protection from Evil |
| 32-57 | Light | (or: 46-52 | Protection/Evil |
| 58-70 | Magick Missile | 53-60 | Protection/Good |
| 79-83 | Shocking Grasp | 71-78 | Push |
| 84-91 | Sleep | 61-75 | Shield |
| 92-00 | DM’s choice | 76-80 | Spider Climb |
| - | - | 81-86 | Ventriloquism |
| - | - | 87-00 | DM’s choice |
| Roll | Miscellaneous Spells |
| 1-7 | Comprehend Languages |
| 8-23 | Detect Magic |
| 24-31 | Erase |
| 32-35 | Find Familiar |
| 36-41 | Identify |
| 42-50 | Mending |
| 51-60 | Message |
| 61-78 | Unseen Servant |
| 49-85 | Write |
| 86-00 | DM’s choice |
Clerics
should also be taught a limited number of prayers (spells)
to begin the game. Mere
knowledge of a spell title will not allow a
Cleric to pray for it. Prayers
are taught just as spells are taught/given
by an instructor.
However, 2 Clerics can meet
at any time and exchange spell
information. This exchange
(learning process) takes 3 turns per
level of the prayer. Thus,
if a Cleric teaches another Cleric the prayer
for Flame
Strike (5th level), they will be at it for 2 and a 1/2 hours.
The number of prayers awarded
at 1st level should be 2+d4.
One of the spells, regardless
of alignment, is always Cure Light
Wounds.
Obviously the instructor
must know the spells to be able to
teach them. The instructor
will not necessarily teach all of the 1st
level spells he/she knows
to an Acolyte. Here is a weighting of spells for
1st-level Clerics:
ALIGNMENT OF THE INSTRUCTOR
| Title | LAWFUL
GOOD |
PURE
GOOD |
CHAOTIC
GOOD |
LAWFUL
NEUTRAL |
CHAOTIC
NEUTRAL |
ALL
EVILS |
| Bless | 1-7 | 1-6 | 1-6 | 1-4 | 1-4 | 1-3 |
| Curse | 8-11 | 7-11 | 7-12 | 5-10 | 5-12 | 4-13 |
| Command | 12-18 | 12-17 | 13-17 | 11-17 | 13-16 | 14-18 |
| Create Water | 19-21 | 18-20 | 18-19 | 18-20 | 17-18 | 19-20 |
| Destroy Water | 22-23 | 21-22 | 20-21 | 21 | 19 | 21 |
| Cause Light Wounds | 24 | 23-24 | 22-27 | 22-27 | 20-28 | 22-30 |
| Detect Evil | 25-36 | 25-35 | 28-35 | 28-32 | 21-25 | 31-34 |
| Detect Good | 37-40 | 36-39 | 36-37 | 33-37 | 26-30 | 35-40 |
| Detect Magic | 41-44 | 40-45 | 38-44 | 38-43 | 31-38 | 41-47 |
| Light | 45-50 | 46-50 | 45-50 | 44-48 | 39-43 | 48-51 |
| Darkness | 51-52 | 51-53 | 51-53 | 49-52 | 44-50 | 52-57 |
| Protection from Evil | 53-60 | 54-59 | 54-58 | 53-56 | 51-54 | 58-60 |
| Protection from Good | - | 6 0 | 59-60 | 57-60 | 55-58 | 61-66 |
| Purify Food and Drink | 61-66 | 61-65 | 61-64 | 61-65 | 59-64 | 67-69 |
| Putrify Food and Drink | - | 6 6 | 67 | 66-67 | 65-67 | 70-72 |
| Remove Fear | 67-72 | 67-72 | 68-72 | 68-72 | 68-72 | 73-77 |
| Fear Touch | 73-77 | 73-78 | 73-80 | 73-84 | 73-86 | 78-88 |
| Resist Cold | 78-84 | 79-84 | 81-84 | 85-87 | 87-89 | 89-92 |
| Sanctuary | 85-00 | 85-00 | 85-00 | 88-00 | 90-00 | 93-00 |
How
many magick items?
The beginning party can
start with a few magic items, but they
should be few in number
and relatively weak in power: perhaps 1
item for every 3 levels
at a maximum but at least 1 item for
every seven levels. Note
that men-at-arms and other hirelings
do not
have levels and would not
count toward the awarding of magic
items. A brief list of good
1st level items follows:
Potions: Animal
Control (dogs, large cats, birds, but
not giant
types or insects), Clairaudience,
Clairvoyance, Climbing,
Diminution,
Extra
Healing, Fire Resistance,
Healing, Invisibility,
Levitation,
Polymorph
Self or Sweet Water.
Scrolls:
1 to 4 first- or second-level spells of informational
or miscellaneous types.
Rings: Feather Falling, Fire Resistance, Warmth, Water Walking.
Rods and Staves: none.
Wands: Enemy
Detection, Illumination,
Magick Detection, Metal
&
Mineral Detection, Negation,
each with 2-7 charges—but only
1 wand to a party.
Miscellaneous Magic:
Alchemy
Jug (with a capacity of 2 or
3 useful potions; this item
should count as 2 or 3 items,
depending on the number
of potions it gives in a week), Arrow
of
Direction,
Boots of Elvenkind, Boots
of Levitation (counts as 2
items), Bracers
of Defense (AC 5 to 8—count as 1
item for 8, two for 7, three
for 6 and four for 5), Cloak of
Elvenkind,
Keoghtom’s Ointment (1 jar
counts as 2 items),
Wings
of Flying (counts as two items).
Armor: Chain Mail + 1, Leather Armor + 1, Shield + 1. <1-2 = small or small wooden or buckler, 3-4 = medium, 5-6 = large>
Swords: Sword + 1. <sword types>
Miscellaneous Weapons: 2d4 Arrows + 1, Axe + 1, Hammer +1, Mace + <1-3 = footman's mace, 4-6 = horseman's mace> 1, Spear +1 <1-2 = spear, 3-4 = oxtongue spear, 5-6 = ash spear>.
Remember that awarding magick
items is up to the DM. Even if the
party is made up of the
offspring of former PCs from
another series of dungeons,
the DM controls what will be passed to
their children. If the party
is given too much to begin with, there is no
challenge. If a magic item
is too strong at the beginning of the
campaign, play will revolve
around that item and not around the
characters. The more players
have to work for items, the better the
campaign will be.
Designing the
adventure
Phase two of designing a
campaign is designing the first adven-
ture. You have established
the rough outline of the characters, so
now it is easier to establish
a resistance that is tough and challenging
without being fatal to the
party.
The first adventure can be
a wilderness adventure, a town adventure,
or a dungeon
adventure. The latter is the most popular and
is the easiest for a beginning
party. Next, you have to decide if the
monsters in the dungeon
will be organized or random. That is, are
the monsters separate from
one another so that they do not warn or
protect each other, or do
they fully cooperate? Is one monster in
charge of the dungeon, or
are there numerous power bases?
Most initial adventures are
of the dungeon/random monster
type, which is fairly good
for establishing new players/characters.
Outdoor and organized-resistance
adventures are generally tougher,
and the players and characters
have to be on their toes to handle
these. If a few of the players
are beginning D&D or AD&D
players or
if one or more is a complete
novice then the dungeon/random
monster adventure is almost
mandatory for teaching him/her/them
the game mechanics.
In an organized resistance
there is a hierarchy: a leader, perhaps
one or more co-leaders,
some lieutenants and perhaps even some
sergeants. If this organization
is attacked, and if an alarm can be
sounded, this organization
will respond with a coordinated defense/
attack.
Random-monster dungeons,
on the other hand, have quite a few <(DMG,
FF,
MM2)>
power bases within them.
They co-exist for 2 major reasons: 1
power base is not strong
enough to wipe out the other(s), and the
more monsters
in an AREA the better protected they all are.
Either type of adventure
can produce multiple forays as the party
hits, probes, retreats and
hits again. The organized resistance will
better prepare for the 2nd
coming of the party, but in the random
monster
dungeon little if anything will transpire between attacks.
Once the type of adventure
is determined, the designer decides
who the inhabitants will
be and what treasure they will guard. It is <(DMG.A: Treasure
Table)>
wise to determine the total
amount of treasure right now, before
the
inhabitants are determined.
If you parcel the treasure out on a
monster-by-monster basis,
you may end up with too much or too
little treasure. The treasure
will include items the monsters may
actually use against the
party. Make up a list of treasure and subtract
from the list as you place
each monster or group of monsters.
How much treasure should
there be? There should be enough
treasure so that from 25%
to 50% of the party can advance
1 level of experience.
This does not include the
1 or 2 items the party
may keep within the group,
nor would it include the money/items
that might have to be sold
to raise the dead or cure the injured.
To
compute this, add up the
number of points the party, as a whole,
needs for each member to
go up 1 level of experience. About
15,000 to 25,000 XP would
be correct for a party of
9 consisting of 6 first-levels,
2 second-levels and 1 third-level
character. Thus, treasure
should have a resale value of 3,750 to
12,500 GP, depending on
the exact nature of the party. Remember
to then add an item or 2
for the party to keep as a group and a
small amount of treasure
for curative purposes. If the party goes into
a dungeon, kills all of
the monsters, but only gains enough to get
everyone cured and everyone
raised they will come out with nothing
to show for their trouble.
If a party is poorly organized
or if it makes a blunder or two, then
that’s their tough luck.
If the party plays very well, perhaps they will
get to keep more treasure,
and someone might even go up two levels <x>
of experience from a single
adventure. These guidelines are very
rough but are stated to
give you some “ball park” idea of how much
should be there. An item’s
gold piece value may not be what a party
can get for it; in fact,
no one may want to buy it at all. However,
calculate the value of the
item as given in the DMG.
Here is a sample list of
treasure, with a total value of 19,000 GP:
A Long
Sword +1 valued at 2,000 GP, a set of Scale
Mail +2
valued at 6,750 GP, a Potion
of lnvisibility valued at 500 GP, a Ring
of
Free Action valued at 5,000 GP, 350 Gold Pieces, 750 Electrum
Pieces, 13,300 Silver Pieces,
17,400 Copper Pieces; Gems: 4x50
GP each, 3x100 GP each,
1 at 600 GP; a set of silver serving pieces
(850 GP), a jade statue
of a lion (45 GP), 2 barrels of mead
(200
GP), a Holy Symbol encrusted
with gems (550 GP), 2 vials of <generate random GH deity>
Holy
Water (50 GP), a small silver mirror (20
GP), a set of plate
armor (400 GP), two sets
of studded armor (30 GP), and a twohanded
sword (28 GP).
This treasure is not only
diverse, but contains items a party may
not think of as treasure.
The 19,000 GP figure takes into account the
curing and necessary raising
from the dead for 1 character. This
total treasure would then
be given out to the monsters in the dungeon.
Notice that there is no Magic
User’s Book and no scrolls. Thus, if
there is a human in the
monster list, he/she is likely not a Magic-User.
If a Magic-User’s Book were
included then its value might well be
thousands of gold pieces
(see The Dragon #28 for a suggested value
of such a book, page 31).
<(UA: Value of Spell Books)>
Now we know the party size,
the items they possess and the
treasure being guarded.
Now all that is necessary is the designing of
the adventure area itself.
Either of 2 approaches can be used:
Either draw a map of the
AREA and then populate it, or determine the
<(DSG: Mapping Your Settings)>
monsters and then draw a
map of the area to accommodate them.
You may add a few traps,
but they should not be lethal. Spiked
pits, lethal poison needles,
and falling two-ton blocks are too much
for a 1st adventure. Limit
traps to slides, shifting rooms, an aimed
crossbow, a trip wire leading
to a gong, etc.
The March
of the Monsters
Here is a list of some monsters
that can be challenged by a typical
party made up of 6 first-level
characters, 2 second-level characters
and 1 third-level character
and possessing some minor magicks:
Giant
ants (6 workers and 2 warriors), black
bears (2 or 3),
bombardier
beetles (2 to 4), fire beetles
(4 to 7), bugbears (2 or 3),
giant
centipedes (3 to 5 as a trap), gargoyle
(1 or 2—only if the party
has two or three magic weapons),
ghouls (2 or 3), gnolls
(3 to 5), hell
hound
(3 hit dice, 1 or 2), hobgoblins (4
to 8), kobolds (6 to 12),
werewolf
(1), ogre (1 or 2), orcs
(4 to 10), giant scorpion (1),
shadows
(2 to 4), skeletons (2 to 6), size
M spiders (2 to 4), stirges (3
to 5), troll
(1), zombie (3 to 5).
This number of monsters should
be adjusted upwards if the party
has access to a Sleep
spell, and even more so if the party has access
to multiple Sleep spells.
The Sleep spell can make combat too easy
for a party against many
of the monsters given in the list above.
The list does not hope to
include all monsters that might be pitted
against a 1st-level party,
but 6 HD for any other creature added
should be about the limit.
A monster with more than 6 HD will
make mincemeat of a group
even if the party finally does defeat the
thing. If too many party
members
are killed in a single melee it will be
almost impossible for the
group to afford to get them all raised. If
party members must constantly
be buried then the players cannot
form personas for the characters
they control.
The treasure list given above
would be parceled out to this group
of monsters. Note that some
of the humanoids in the monster list
could use some of the treasure
items against the party, making the
monster even tougher. If
a shaman or witch
doctor is included in a <>
humanoid tribe, the tribe’s
overall size might have to be reduced.
Individual humans can also
be included, up to a limit of 5th level.
The party listed would have
a very rough time against any single
5th-level character, especially
a Fighter or a Magic-User. Again, the
DM must balance humanoid
and human monsters versus the party.
If, for instance, the party
has a 3rd-level Cleric with Hold Person
and/or Silence,
those 2 spells could dispatch a single adversary
quickly; thus, you should
allow for single humans or humanoids to
have some guards
to help them.
In short, you must Balance
the party versus their opposition. If
the opposition is too weak
or if it is too easily defeated by a spell(s)
the party possesses, then
there is no challenge. If the opposition is
too strong the DM will “win”
but the characters may get wiped out.
Remember, by the way, that
a party that is losing a melee can be
ordered (asked) to surrender
by many monsters, and then robbed or
imprisoned. All melees do
not have to go to a final conclusion.
Stupid monsters might only
want one party member to eat, and thus
the party could escape by
an act of sacrifice. The DM should give the
party as many options as
possible.
Organized
resistance
Here follows a brief example
of an organized resistance. Remember
that all of the players
in such an adventure should have played
the game a few times before.
An organized resistance is usually too
tough for novice players.
<Monsters and Organization, DMG>
An organized resistance might
have 1 boss or it might be led by
a partnership. A partnership
may involve 2 or perhaps 3
power bases which will cooperate
if any of them are attacked.
Some single-boss organized resistances:
* A Thaumaturgist
backed
up by a Hero. His sergeants are two
bugbears. He controls
12 men-at-arms.
* A band of 20 orcs led by a witch doctor and a chief.
* A band of robbers made up of a Robber, a Conjurer, an Adept, and 6 Vets.
* An ogre in charge of 8 hobgoblins.
* A Murderer backed up a Minor Trickster and 5 Rogues.
Some partnerships might be as follows:
* A pair
of ghasts for night
protection
and a Prefect and 6 Acolytes
for day protection.
* A manticore
guarding the top of a hill with a Hero
and 5
Vets
at the base in a cave.
* A very
young black dragon in cooperation
with a Conjurer and
7 men-at-arms.
* 2 sahuagin aiding a band of 8 pirates on a small island.
In each of these cases, if
one group/individual is attacked the
other (if it learns of the
attack) will aid at once.
These symbiotic
relationships BENEFIT both
partners with increased security and treasure.
The 2 or 3 power bases should
not be allowed to live
together or to travel together,
since combined they would be too
strong for a 1st-level group.
The biggest mistake most
designers make is to give away an item
or items that destroy play
balance. If an item, or the one character
who owns it, dominates play,
the DM has made an error. To redeem
himself, he can try to regain
the item in the next adventure. There
can be a plan to get it
back (or to destroy it), which might fail. This will
test the DM and the party
and will prevent charges that the DM is
being arbitrary. If you
as a DM make a mistake and you see it is
ruining the game, try to
correct the error in the context of The Game
if
you can. Perhaps you might
see fit to reward the party for the loss of
the item but you should,
at the very least, give them a good adventure
in your attempt at regaining/destroying
it.
New
monsters and magic items
New monsters and magic items
are always interesting, but limit
these creations to 1 or
2 such things per adventure. There is
plenty of good adventuring
to be had with the existing offerings, and
something new and different
is not necessary at every turn. If you do
wish to add a few things,
there should be some guidelines:
A new item does not have
to be brand new. You can make items
with properties identical
to some existing items but housed in a new
way: a Helm
of Protection + 1, a Shield
of Feather Fall, a Ring of
Magic
Missiles, a Wand of Warp Wood, and
many other such items
are just variations on existing
items.
This trick is especially
useful if you have a player(s) who, disregarding
The
Spirit of The Game, memorizes the books and can rattle off
10 uses for a wand
at the drop of a hat. You can contain this type of
player with changed items,
or you might require a knowledge roll
before you allow any speculation
about what an item might be. This
will lead to some controversy,
however. The knowledge roll was part
of my campaign some years
ago but it proved to be a source of
argument instead of a solution.
Yet, ours might have been problems
unique to our group, and
perhaps it will work for you.
Another trick the DM can
use is to vary multi-purpose items so
that a figure will not know
all of the item’s powers by finding out one.
Multi-purpose items should
not be given out to low-level groups or
be guarded in a 1st
adventure. Yet when they do become available,
you can alter one or more
properties without making a new magic
item.
A totally new item, for a
beginning party, must produce an effect
no more dramatic than a
2nd- or 3rd-level attack spell or up to a
4th-level defensive or informational
spell. New spells must also be
controlled. Use a check-and-balance
system built into the spell if at
all possible.
On one occasion, with a party
of 6th- to 8th-level figures, a
sword was awarded that teleported
without error—and as if that
wasn’t bad enough, it also
always struck first. This caused many a
good plan to go right down
the old toilet. It is very easy for a DM to
overdo it; limiting new
items and spells in a beginning campaign is
most important.
The
campaign overview
Once the 1st adventure is
designed, it is time to add a history and
overview to your campaign.
Now you can draw a map around the
adventure site, showing
towns and other features. Working your
way out is better than handing
the party a map of the world for the
first campaign. Given a
huge map, they will want to go somewhere
you haven’t even had a chance
to consider as yet. By working your
way from the inside out,
you will have a much better grip on a history
that makes sense and hangs
together logically. Don’t worry about
other countries/islands/counties
on the map until the home base for
your 1st-level group is
well defined. As you begin to expand, you
can let the party hear about
other adventures they may be able to try
in the future. Thus, they
will be able to choose where they will go as
time passes and you will
be ready for them.
Unfortunately, there is no
pat formula for designing an adventure.
That is what makes D&D
and AD&D so attractive. Yet, after
playing each design you
can look at the overall result and learn from
what you have done. If the
party is moving too quickly or too slowly,
you can make up for it in
the next adventure. If you design too far
ahead, either the party
will be too weak or too strong to do what you
would like to see them do.
Moderation, equilibrium
and care are the
chief words to remember
in designing a campaign.
OUT
ON A LIMB
Now, I would like to voice my opinion of the
article about starting a campaign by Lenard
Lakofka. I thought it was a well-designed article
and should aid new DMs in the terrible
task of creating a world. However, there was
one point that I did disagree with. Mr. Lakofka said
that in the first adventure, there should
be enough
treasure to allow at least one player to advance a
level, and in his sample treasure list he gave the
players the possibility of collecting 4 magick
items. This in itself is not bad, but I believe that in
an article such as this, it will tend to make new
DMs believe that you have to give out large sums
of money and magic items in every adventure.
However, I believe that a DM should never feel
compelled to give out magical items. If they are
given out, no matter how carefully; in large
quantity, they tend to lose value. My personal belief
is that a magical item should be an object of
great power, and anyone who has more than one
must be a great adventurer indeed. In the world I
run (which I admit is a bit frugal), very few characters
ever get more than one magic item, and a
single piece of gold could buy most towns. My
players are thus forced to be very wary about what
they fight and when they do fight; they must plan
out their attack. Also, I do not give experience for
gold. I believe that personal wealth should be the
prerequisite for title, but not for level. I can not
justify in my mind that just because a character
finds a large sum of money, they should
become a
better fighter (or whatever). The fact that I never
give out more than a few gold pieces at a time
does not alter this, and so characters in my world
that advance to 4th or 5th level are considered
great.
But not everyone likes playing this kind of GAME
and I do not want to make people think it is a
better way (besides, I never would anyway), merely
different. I feel that just because someone else
plays one way, a DM should not feel that he (or
she) must play that way also. A good DM will find
players who enjoy his (or her) campaign however
they choose to run it. My way is with little wealth
and magic.
Before my creative juices depart, I would like to
say (and this is only one opinion) that the separation
of The Dragon from TSR games (even if all
that changed was the name) was a wise move. It
gives The Dragon a more appealing air to those of
us who aren’t completely enthralled with TSR.
This again is only one opinion and is not meant to
influence any members of the public.
The last thing I would like to do is congratulate
the Dragon staff for putting out such a great magazine.
It is truly enjoyable. Keep up the good work.
Russell Shiffer
Walnut Creek, Calif.
(Dragon #43)
"Helpful"
Dear Dragon:
In the last six months I have seen no less than
7 novice D&D® groups
spring up. Normally
I would welcome all these new players with open
arms, except for the fact that all the DM’s practice
1st-degree character inflation. For instance,
one DM I know started a newcomer to the game
as a 10/9/8 M-U/Cleric/Fighter with a ring of 43
full Wish spells, a + 13 war hammer,
and to top it
off this character had a modest -23 armor class.
This character was sent through TSR’s Giant
series (modules)
with 22 other party members
just as strong as he was. The party, as could be
expected, not only suffered no deaths, but no
damage either.
Now to my point: If Dragon could run more
articles like Len Lakofka’s “Starting
from
Scratch” in issue #39, the
whole D&D world
would benefit. I have been DMing for about 2½
years, and I found the article very helpful; to a
beginning DM it would be invaluable. So keep
those helpful articles coming.
Adam Benowitz
Plymouth Meeting, Pa.
(Dragon #45)