You have made the decision to begin a campaign, but you don’t
know where to START. You have a lot of great ideas, ways to mix
existing monsters and spells with a few new things of your own
creation. Still, you are unsure where to begin.

The worst place is in the middle. You should start fresh; a new
party is required. Do not try to take an existing group of characters
that has moved from dungeon to dungeon into your new world.
Your old party will have some medium-level, if not more powerful,
characters as well as many items and spells that would ruin a low-level
dungeon. Designing a campaign means starting with low-level
characters who are to be built up in the framework of the new world.

The existing characters might be brought in once the rest of the
party has caught up to them in levels. Or the existing characters
might be allowed to “settle down” in your world as NPCs
for the new group to meet. If this latter option is adopted,
the existing characters should have no reason to automatically befriend
the new party. Finally, the existing party can “sire” the new
party--but there must be very few, if any, heirlooms passed down to
the new group and the DM must control the gentry, not the players.

Creation of a campaign is best accomplised in three steps:
    1. Creation of the party.
    2. Creation of the first adventure(s).
    3. Creation of the history and overview of the adventure site(s).

Does this sound backwards to you? It likely does, but there is an
explanation. By knowing the size (that is, rank, level and number of
members of the party that will go on an adventure), it is easier to
design that adventure.

The adventure can be dangerous, but still a task that can be
completed. It is too easy to design an adventure and then realize that
a beginning party is too weak to attack it. The fun of a campaign is to
promote low-level characters and to let players get close to the
characters and to form their personas. That is almost impossible if
character enters the game as a fourth, fifth, sixth or even higher level
character.

Creation of the party
There are many methods of creating characters. Rolling them up
with the players present is usually a good policy for the DM to follow.
A few methods are given in the DMG. Here is a
variation on one of those:
    1. Roll 4d6 seven times. Record the sum of the three highest
    six-sided dice. If that sum is six or less, reroll at once. The sums must
    be recorded in order.
    For example:
 

Rolls	Record
6/5/3/1	14
3/3/3/2	9
6/6/5/3	17
5/5/3/2	13
2/2/1/1	discard
4/4/4/3	12
6/4/5/4	15
5/3/3/2	11

    2. The player is allowed two chances to alter the numbers as
    recorded. He/she may switch the positions of two numbers and
    he/she may discard one number—not necessarily the lowest one.
    The resultant character will be described for abilities in the order
    S-I-W-D-C-B (“B” is for Bearing or Beauty, used instead of Charisma,
    to avoid two characteristics beginning with “C”.). At the moment
    the character has scores of 14-9-17-13-12-15-11. He or she
    could be altered as follows:
    S 17, I14, W 13, D 12, C 15, B 11 (switch 14 and 17, eliminate 9)
    S 14, I 17, W 13, D 15, C 12, B 11 (switch 15 and 12, eliminate 9)
    S 14, 112, W 13, D 17, C 15, B 11 (switch 12 and 17, eliminate9)
    S 14, I9, W 15, D 13, C 12, B 17 (switch 15 and 17, eliminate 11)

    3. Now adjust the abilities for race if he/she is to be other than a
    human. Taking the four characters given above, the Dungeon Master
    might allow these racial changes (also given is the selection of
    profession);
    S 18, I 14, W, D 12, C 16, B 9: Half-orc fighter (He/she could now roll for unusual strength.)
    S 14, I 17, W 13, D 16, C 11, B 11: Elven Magic-User
    S 13, I 12, W 13, D 18, C 15, B 11: Halfling Thief
    S 14,19, W 15, D 13, C 12, B 17: Human Druid

The DM might want the characters to meet certain criteria (see
below), and might wish to forbid one or more of the sub-classes. The
assignment of alignment, skills, languages, spells known, etc. is all
the prerogative of the DM. He/she can ask the players to collaborate
on the races and classes they select, or he/she might forbid such
contact. In the latter case, however, there may end up being too
many of one class. While that might be fun for a while, eventually it
will harm your campaign and the players’ enjoyment. The DM
should always monitor the entire process of creation of player characters.

The DM may find it wise to eliminate a few of the possible
sub-classes when beginning a campaign, or at least to limit the total
number of allowed sub-classes to a maximum of two. A beginning
party should not contain a Paladin, an Assassin or an Illusionist.
These are difficult sub-classes to play and they detract from a beginning
adventure; add them later in the game. A Ranger, a Druid or a
Monk is not too hard to control, but before you allow those subclasses
in the party be sure that there is a regular Fighter (or two)
before you allow a Ranger and a regular Cleric before you allow a
Druid or a Monk.

A campaign plays best with five or six players. Three is a minimum
number and eight is a reasonable maximum. A group of more
than eight is usually unruly and difficult to manage. I have run many
tournament games at conventions and found parties of nine or ten to
be difficult even for only four or so hours of an event; on a week-by-week
basis this would be maddening. Three or four players is too
few. Each player will usually have two characters, if not three, and
the flow of ideas becomes stifled and limited.

Each player should have one or two characters according to the
following formula. For every three first-level characters, a beginning
party may have one second-level character. For every pair of second-
level party members there may be one third-level character. (A
multi-class, multi-level character counts in the following way:
1/1=2, 2/2=3, 3/3 not allowed.) If there is a third-level character it
should be controlled by a single player. A pair of first-level characters
can be given to a single player.

Thus, party size is limited to three to twelve figures. Having more
than twelve figures to play is difficult in melee and other situations.
The option of adding a few zero-level mercenaries should exist. Add
these in pairs, with six such characters as a maximum number while
staying within the total allowable party size of twelve.

All of these number recommendations are based on the author’s
experience in some 50 tournament games, 50 or more miniatures
games and five campaigns.

If a third-level character is allowed, he/she should be a Fighter, a
Cleric or a Thief. Members of all of the other classes and sub-classes
should have to work to gain third level. It is wise to allow one or two
second-level characters to strengthen the beginning party. A dozen
first-level types are fairly easy prey but if they are reinforced by two
second-levels, their doom is not as easily foretold.

PCs should always have the maximum possible hit
points at first level. That is, Fighters ten, Clerics eight, Thieves six and
Magic-Users four, adjusted for Constitution of course. Rangers begin
with 8+d8 and Monks with 4+d4 hit points. Give player characters a
good chance to survive: There is nothing more pitiful than a Fighter
who has a strength of 18/00 and only two hit points to back him/her
up!

Spells known by the group’s Magic-User(s) should be as per the DMG. <(ACQUISITION OF MAGIC-USER SPELLS)>
A DM can be a real sweetheart and not require a roll “to
know” for the first three spells given at first level. If a knowledge roll
is required, be sure to make at least three spells available to the
Magic-User.

Spells not known on the first attempt can be tried again whenever
the figure gets a promotion, as long as his/her teacher already
knows the spell he/she has failed to learn in the past. This second roll
is at minus 20%, however. If he/she fails a second attempt, the spell
is forever beyond comprehension. (Exception: If the player somehow
gains a full point of Intelligence, he/she may try one more time,
but still at minus 20% and only with an instructor as before.)

Here is a weighting of the spells for Magic-Users at the first level
(other levels can and probably should be weighted as well) following
a set of criteria. Spells that are “common” are given a higher percentage
chance to appear (and thus be taught to a Magic-User).
Spells that are difficult to adjudicate are given a low probability.
Spells that give the Magic-User too much power if given early in a
campaign are given a low probability. Naturally, you can vary these
percentages as you see fit or you might just choose all spells to be
out.
 

Roll	Offensive Spells	Roll	Defensive Spells
1-8	Burning Hands	1-11	Affect Normal Fires
9-21	Charm Person	12-23	Dancing Lights
22-27	Enlarge	24-30	Feather Fall
(or: 22-30	Enlarge	31-38	Hold Portal
31-37	Shrink)	39-45	Jump
38-42	Friends	46-60	Protection from Evil
32-57	Light	(or: 46-52	Protection/Evil
58-70	Magic Missile	53-60	Protection/Good
79-83	Shocking Grasp	71-78	Push
84-91	Sleep	61-75	Shield
92-00	DM’s choice	76-80	Spider Climb
-	-	81-86	Ventriloquism
-	-	87-00	DM’s choice

 

Roll	Miscellaneous Spells
1-7	Comprehend Languages
8-23	Detect Magic
24-31	Erase
32-35	Find Familiar
36-41	Identify
42-50	Mending
51-60	Message
61-78	Unseen Servant
49-85	Write
86-00	DM’s choice

Clerics should also be taught a limited number of prayers (spells)
to begin the game. Mere knowledge of a spell title will not allow a
Cleric to pray for it. Prayers are taught just as spells are taught/given
by an instructor.

However, two Clerics can meet at any time and exchange spell
information. This exchange (learning process) takes three turns per
level of the prayer. Thus, if a Cleric teaches another Cleric the prayer
for Flame Strike (5th level), they will be at it for two and a half hours.

The number of prayers awarded at first level should be 2+d4.
One of the spells, regardless of alignment, is always Cure Light Wounds.
Wounds. Obviously the instructor must know the spells to be able to
teach them. The instructor will not necessarily teach all of the first
level spells he/she knows to an Acolyte. Here is a weighting of spells for
first-level Clerics:

                                        ALIGNMENT OF THE INSTRUCTOR

Title	LAWFUL  GOOD	PURE  GOOD	CHAOTIC  GOOD	LAWFUL  NEUTRAL	CHAOTIC  NEUTRAL	ALL  EVILS
Bless	1-7	1-6	1-6	1-4	1-4	1-3
Curse	8-11	7-11	7-12	5-10	5-12	4-13
Command	12-18	12-17	13-17	11-17	13-16	14-18
Create Water	19-21	18-20	18-19	18-20	17-18	19-20
Destroy Water	22-23	21-22	20-21	21	19	21
Cause Light Wounds	24	23-24	22-27	22-27	20-28	22-30
Detect Evil	25-36	25-35	28-35	28-32	21-25	31-34
Detect Good	37-40	36-39	36-37	33-37	26-30	35-40
Detect Magic	41-44	40-45	38-44	38-43	31-38	41-47
Light	45-50	46-50	45-50	44-48	39-43	48-51
Darkness	51-52	51-53	51-53	49-52	44-50	52-57
Protection from Evil	53-60	54-59	54-58	53-56	51-54	58-60
Protection from Good	-	6 0	59-60	57-60	55-58	61-66
Purify Food and Water	61-66	61-65	61-64	61-65	59-64	67-69
Putrify Food and Water	-	6 6	67	66-67	65-67	70-72
Remove Fear	67-72	67-72	68-72	68-72	68-72	73-77
Fear Touch	73-77	73-78	73-80	73-84	73-86	78-88
Resist Cold	78-84	79-84	81-84	85-87	87-89	89-92
Sanctuary	85-00	85-00	85-00	88-00	90-00	93-00

How many magic items?
The beginning party can start with a few magic items, but they
should be few in number and relatively weak in power: perhaps one
item for every three levels at a maximum but at least one item for
every seven levels. Note that men-at-arms and other hirelings do not
have levels and would not count toward the awarding of magic
items. A brief list of good first level items follows:

Potions: Animal Control (dogs, large cats, birds, but not giant
types or insects), Clairaudience, Clairvoyance, Climbing, Diminution,
Extra Healing, Fire Resistance, Healing, Invisibility, Levitation,
Polymorph Self or Sweet Water.

Scrolls: one to four first- or second-level spells of informational
or miscellaneous types.

Rings: Feather Falling, Fire Resistance, Warmth, Water Walking.

Rods and Staves: none.

Wands: Enemy Detection, Illumination, Magic Detection, Metal
&Mineral Detection, Negation, each with 2-7 charges—but only
one wand to a party.

Miscellaneous Magic: Alchemy Jug (with a capacity of two or
three useful potions; this item should count as two or three items,
depending on the number of potions it gives in a week), Arrow of
Direction, Boots of Elvenkind, Boots of Levitation (counts as 2
items), Bracers of Defense (Armor Class five to eight—count as one
item for eight, two for seven, three for six and four for five), Cloak of
Elvenkind, Keoghtom’s Ointment (one jar counts as two items),
Wings of Flying (counts as two items).

Armor: Chain Mail + 1, Leather Armor + 1, Shield + 1.

Swords: Sword + 1.

Miscellaneous Weapons: 2d4 Arrows + 1, Axe + 1, Hammer +1, Mace +1, Spear +1.

Remember that awarding magic items is up to the DM. Even if the
party is made up of the offspring of former PCs from
another series of dungeons, the DM controls what will be passed to
their children. If the party is given too much to begin with, there is no
challenge. If a magic item is too strong at the beginning of the
campaign, play will revolve around that item and not around the
characters. The more players have to work for items, the better the
campaign will be.

Designing the adventure
Phase two of designing a campaign is designing the first adven-
ture. You have established the rough outline of the characters, so
now it is easier to establish a resistance that is tough and challenging
without being fatal to the party.

The first adventure can be a wilderness adventure, a town adventure,
or a dungeon adventure. The latter is the most popular and
is the easiest for a beginning party. Next, you have to decide if the
monsters in the dungeon will be organized or random. That is, are
the monsters separate from one another so that they do not warn or
protect each other, or do they fully cooperate? Is one monster in
charge of the dungeon, or are there numerous power bases?

Most initial adventures are of the dungeon/random monster
type, which is fairly good for establishing new players/characters.
Outdoor and organized-resistance adventures are generally tougher,
and the players and characters have to be on their toes to handle
these. If a few of the players are beginning D&D or AD&D players or
if one or more is a complete novice then the dungeon/random
monster adventure is almost mandatory for teaching him/her/them
the game mechanics.

In an organized resistance there is a hierarchy: a leader, perhaps
one or more co-leaders, some lieutenants and perhaps even some
sergeants. If this organization is attacked, and if an alarm can be
sounded, this organization will respond with a coordinated defense/
attack.

Random-monster dungeons, on the other hand, have quite a few <(DMG, FF, MM2)>
power bases within them. They co-exist for two major reasons: one
power base is not strong enough to wipe out the other(s), and the
more monsters in an area the better protected they all are.

Either type of adventure can produce multiple forays as the party
hits, probes, retreats and hits again. The organized resistance will
better prepare for the second coming of the party, but in the random
monster dungeon little if anything will transpire between attacks.

Once the type of adventure is determined, the designer decides
who the inhabitants will be and what treasure they will guard. It is <(DMG.A: Treasure Table)>
wise to determine the total amount of treasure right now, before the
inhabitants are determined. If you parcel the treasure out on a
monster-by-monster basis, you may end up with too much or too
little treasure. The treasure will include items the monsters may
actually use against the party. Make up a list of treasure and subtract
from the list as you place each monster or group of monsters.

How much treasure should there be? There should be enough
treasure so that from 25% to 50% of the party can advance one level of experience.
This does not include the one or two items the party
may keep within the group, nor would it include the money/items
that might have to be sold to raise the dead or cure the injured. To
compute this, add up the number of points the party, as a whole,
needs for each member to go up one level of experience. About
15,000 to 25,000 experience points would be correct for a party of
nine consisting of six first-levels, two second-levels and one thirdlevel
character. Thus, treasure should have a resale value of 3,750 to
12,500 GP, depending on the exact nature of the party. Remember
to then add an item or two for the party to keep as a group and a
small amount of treasure for curative purposes. If the party goes into
a dungeon, kills all of the monsters, but only gains enough to get
everyone cured and everyone raised they will come out with nothing
to show for their trouble.

If a party is poorly organized or if it makes a blunder or two, then
that’s their tough luck. If the party plays very well, perhaps they will
get to keep more treasure, and someone might even go up two levels <x>
of experience from a single adventure. These guidelines are very
rough but are stated to give you some “ball park” idea of how much
should be there. An item’s gold piece value may not be what a party
can get for it; in fact, no one may want to buy it at all. However,
calculate the value of the item as given in the DMG.

Here is a sample list of treasure, with a total value of 19,000 GP:
A Long Sword +1 valued at 2,000 GP, a set of Scale Mail +2
valued at 6,750 GP, a Potion of lnvisibility valued at 500 GP, a Ring
of Free Action valued at 5,000 GP, 350 Gold Pieces, 750 Electrum
Pieces, 13,300 Silver Pieces, 17,400 Copper Pieces; Gems: 4x50
GP each, 3x100 GP each, 1 at 600 GP; a set of silver serving pieces
(850 GP), a jade statue of a lion (45 GP), two barrels of mead (200
GP), a Holy Symbol encrusted with gems (550 GP), two vials of
Holy Water (50 GP), a small silver mirror (20 GP), a set of plate
armor (400 GP), two sets of studded armor (30 GP), and a twohanded
sword (28 GP).

This treasure is not only diverse, but contains items a party may
not think of as treasure. The 19,000 GP figure takes into account the
curing and necessary raising from the dead for one character. This
total treasure would then be given out to the monsters in the dungeon.

Notice that there is no Magic User’s Book and no scrolls. Thus, if
there is a human in the monster list, he/she is likely not a Magic-User.
If a Magic-User’s Book were included then its value might well be
thousands of gold pieces (see The Dragon #28 for a suggested value
of such a book, page 31). <(UA: Value of Spell Books)>

Now we know the party size, the items they possess and the
treasure being guarded. Now all that is necessary is the designing of
the adventure area itself. Either of two approaches can be used:
Either draw a map of the area and then populate it, or determine the <(DSG: Mapping Your Settings)>
monsters and then draw a map of the area to accommodate them.

You may add a few traps, but they should not be lethal. Spiked
pits, lethal poison needles, and falling two-ton blocks are too much
for a first adventure. Limit traps to slides, shifting rooms, an aimed
crossbow, a trip wire leading to a gong, etc.

The March of the Monsters
Here is a list of some monsters that can be challenged by a typical
party made up of six first-level characters, two second-level characters
and one third-level character and possessing some minor magics:

Giant ants (6 workers and 2 warriors), black bears (2 or 3),
bombardier beetles (2 to 4), fire beetles (4 to 7), bugbears (2 or 3),
giant centipedes (3 to 5 as a trap), gargoyle (1 or 2—only if the party
has two or three magic weapons), ghouls (2 or 3), gnolls (3 to 5), hell
hound (3 hit dice, 1 or 2), hobgoblins (4 to 8), kobolds (6 to 12),
werewolf (1), ogre (1 or 2), orcs (4 to 10), giant scorpion (1),
shadows (2 to 4), skeletons (2 to 6), huge spiders (2 to 4), stirges (3
to 5), troll (1), zombie (3 to 5).

This number of monsters should be adjusted upwards if the party
has access to a Sleep spell, and even more so if the party has access
to multiple Sleep spells. The Sleep spell can make combat too easy
for a party against many of the monsters given in the list above.
The list does not hope to include all monsters that might be pitted
against a first-level party, but six hit dice for any other creature added
should be about the limit. A monster with more than six hit dice will
make mincemeat of a group even if the party finally does defeat the
thing. If too many party members are killed in a single melee it will be
almost impossible for the group to afford to get them all raised. If
party members must constantly be buried then the players cannot
form personas for the characters they control.

The treasure list given above would be parceled out to this group
of monsters. Note that some of the humanoids in the monster list
could use some of the treasure items against the party, making the
monster even tougher. If a shaman or witch doctor is included in a <>
humanoid tribe, the tribe’s overall size might have to be reduced.
Individual humans can also be included, up to a limit of fifth level.
The party listed would have a very rough time against any single
fifth-level character, especially a Fighter or a Magic-User. Again, the
DM must balance humanoid and human monsters versus the party.
If, for instance, the party has a third-level Cleric with Hold Person
and/or Silence, those two spells could dispatch a single adversary
quickly; thus, you should allow for single humans or humanoids to
have some guards to help them.

In short, you must balance the party versus their opposition. If
the opposition is too weak or if it is too easily defeated by a spell(s)
the party possesses, then there is no challenge. If the opposition is
too strong the DM will “win” but the characters may get wiped out.
Remember, by the way, that a party that is losing a melee can be
ordered (asked) to surrender by many monsters, and then robbed or
imprisoned. All melees do not have to go to a final conclusion.
Stupid monsters might only want one party member to eat, and thus
the party could escape by an act of sacrifice. The DM should give the
party as many options as possible.

Organized resistance
Here follows a brief example of an organized resistance. Remember
that all of the players in such an adventure should have played
the game a few times before. An organized resistance is usually too
tough for novice players.

An organized resistance might have one boss or it might be led by
a partnership. A partnership may involve two or perhaps three
power bases which will cooperate if any of them are attacked.

Some single-boss organized resistances:

    * A Thaumaturgist
    backed up by a Hero. His sergeants are two bugbears. He controls
    12 men-at-arms.

    * A band of 20 orcs led by a witch doctor and a chief.

    * A band of robbers made up of a fourth-level Thief, a third-level
    Magic-User, a second-level Cleric, and six Veterans.

    * An ogre in charge of eight hobgoblins.

    * A fourth-level Assassin backed up a second-level Illusionist and
    five first-level Thieves.

Some partnerships might be as follows:

    * A pair of ghasts for night
    protection and a Prefect and six Acolytes for day protection.

    * A manticore guarding the top of a hill with a Hero and five
    Veterans at the base in a cave.

    * A very young black dragon in cooperation with a Conjurer and
    seven men-at-arms.

    * Two sahuagin aiding a band of eight pirates on a small island.

In each of these cases, if one group/individual is attacked the
other (if it learns of the attack) will aid at once.

These symbiotic
relationships benefit both partners with increased security and treasure.

The two or three power bases should not be allowed to live
together or to travel together, since combined they would be too
strong for a first-level group.

The biggest mistake most designers make is to give away an item
or items that destroy play balance. If an item, or the one character
who owns it, dominates play, the DM has made an error. To redeem
himself, he can try to regain the item in the next adventure. There
can be a plan to get it back (or to destroy it), which might fail. This will
test the DM and the party and will prevent charges that the DM is
being arbitrary. If you as a DM make a mistake and you see it is
ruining the game, try to correct the error in the context of the game if
you can. Perhaps you might see fit to reward the party for the loss of
the item but you should, at the very least, give them a good adventure
in your attempt at regaining/destroying it.

New monsters and magic items
New monsters and magic items are always interesting, but limit
these creations to one or two such things per adventure. There is
plenty of good adventuring to be had with the existing offerings, and
something new and different is not necessary at every turn. If you do
wish to add a few things, there should be some guidelines:
A new item does not have to be brand new. You can make items
with properties identical to some existing items but housed in a new
way: a Helm of Protection + 1, a Shield of Feather Fall, a Ring of
Magic Missiles, a Wand of Warp Wood, and many other such items
are just variations on existing items.

This trick is especially useful if you have a player(s) who, disregarding
the spirit of the game, memorizes the books and can rattle off
ten uses for a wand at the drop of a hat. You can contain this type of
player with changed items, or you might require a knowledge roll
before you allow any speculation about what an item might be. This
will lead to some controversy, however. The knowledge roll was part
of my campaign some years ago but it proved to be a source of
argument instead of a solution. Yet, ours might have been problems
unique to our group, and perhaps it will work for you.

Another trick the DM can use is to vary multi-purpose items so
that a figure will not know all of the item’s powers by finding out one.
Multi-purpose items should not be given out to low-level groups or
be guarded in a first adventure. Yet when they do become available,
you can alter one or more properties without making a new magic
item.

A totally new item, for a beginning party, must produce an effect
no more dramatic than a second- or third-level attack spell or up to a
fourth-level defensive or informational spell. New spells must also be
controlled. Use a check-and-balance system built into the spell if at
all possible.

On one occasion, with a party of sixth- to eighth-level figures, a
sword was awarded that teleported without error—and as if that
wasn’t bad enough, it also always struck first. This caused many a
good plan to go right down the old toilet. It is very easy for a DM to
overdo it; limiting new items and spells in a beginning campaign is
most important.

The campaign overview
Once the first adventure is designed, it is time to add a history and
overview to your campaign. Now you can draw a map around the
adventure site, showing towns and other features. Working your
way out is better than handing the party a map of the world for the
first campaign. Given a huge map, they will want to go somewhere
you haven’t even had a chance to consider as yet. By working your
way from the inside out, you will have a much better grip on a history
that makes sense and hangs together logically. Don’t worry about
other countries/islands/counties on the map until the home base for
your first-level group is well defined. As you begin to expand, you
can let the party hear about other adventures they may be able to try
in the future. Thus, they will be able to choose where they will go as
time passes and you will be ready for them.

Unfortunately, there is no pat formula for designing an adventure.
That is what makes D&D and AD&D so attractive. Yet, after
playing each design you can look at the overall result and learn from
what you have done. If the party is moving too quickly or too slowly,
you can make up for it in the next adventure. If you design too far
ahead, either the party will be too weak or too strong to do what you
would like to see them do. Moderation, equilibrium and care are the
chief words to remember in designing a campaign.
 

OUT ON A LIMB
Now, I would like to voice my opinion of the
article about starting a campaign by Lenard
Lakofka. I thought it was a well-designed article
and should aid new Dungeon Masters in the terrible
task of creating a world. However, there was
one point that I did disagree with. Mr. Lakofka said
that in the first adventure, there should be enough
treasure to allow at least one player to advance a
level, and in his sample treasure list he gave the
players the possibility of collecting four magic
items. This in itself is not bad, but I believe that in
an article such as this, it will tend to make new
DMs believe that you have to give out large sums
of money and magic items in every adventure.
However, I believe that a DM should never feel
compelled to give out magical items. If they are
given out, no matter how carefully; in large
quantity, they tend to lose value. My personal belief
is that a magical item should be an object of
great power, and anyone who has more than one
must be a great adventurer indeed. In the world I
run (which I admit is a bit frugal), very few characters
ever get more than one magic item, and a
single piece of gold could buy most towns. My
players are thus forced to be very wary about what
they fight and when they do fight; they must plan
out their attack. Also, I do not give experience for
gold. I believe that personal wealth should be the
prerequisite for title, but not for level. I can not
justify in my mind that just because a character
finds a large sum of money, they should become a
better fighter (or whatever). The fact that I never
give out more than a few gold pieces at a time
does not alter this, and so characters in my world
that advance to fourth or fifth level are considered
great.

But not everyone likes playing this kind of game
and I do not want to make people think it is a
better way (besides, I never would anyway), merely
different. I feel that just because someone else
plays one way, a DM should not feel that he (or
she) must play that way also. A good DM will find
players who enjoy his (or her) campaign however
they choose to run it. My way is with little wealth
and magic.

Before my creative juices depart, I would like to
say (and this is only one opinion) that the separation
of The Dragon from TSR games (even if all
that changed was the name) was a wise move. It
gives The Dragon a more appealing air to those of
us who aren’t completely enthralled with TSR.
This again is only one opinion and is not meant to
influence any members of the public.

The last thing I would like to do is congratulate
the Dragon staff for putting out such a great magazine.
It is truly enjoyable. Keep up the good work.

Russell Shiffer
Walnut Creek, Calif.
(Dragon #43)
 

"Helpful"
Dear Dragon:

In the last six months I have seen no less than
seven novice D&D® groups spring up. Normally
I would welcome all these new players with open
arms, except for the fact that all the DM’s practice
first-degree character inflation. For instance,
one DM I know started a newcomer to the game
as a 10/9/8 M-U/Cleric/Fighter with a ring of 43
full Wish spells, a + 13 war hammer, and to top it
off this character had a modest -23 armor class.
This character was sent through TSR’s Giant series (modules)
with 22 other party members
just as strong as he was. The party, as could be
expected, not only suffered no deaths, but no
damage either.

Now to my point: If Dragon could run more
articles like Len Lakofka’s “Starting from
Scratch” in issue #39. the whole D&D world
would benefit. I have been DMing for about 2½
years, and I found the article very helpful; to a
beginning DM it would be invaluable. So keep
those helpful articles coming.

Adam Benowitz
Plymouth Meeting, Pa.
(Dragon #45)